Lost at Sea

Last Friday Ryan Treneer and I finished a new three pitch aid route beside the Roman Chimneys. The four classic aid climbs on the Grand Wall, University Wall, Uncle Bens, Humpty Dumpty and Ten Years After all finish on Dance Platform and Belly Good Ledge.

Before (Lost at Sea A3+ 5.9) an aid climber would have to traverse off Belly Good Ledge to get off the Cheif. Now our aid route offers a great finish. A small dyke splits a blank wall right of the Roman Chimneys. Mostly hooking with beaks every now and then and also a bolt every 20 feet makes this route feel like sport aid climbing. The last pitch is an overhanging heading and beak corner with enough good gear to keep the grade down. The route finishes with a bomber A1 hand crack with a mantle summit.

For a topo check out the Squamish Big Walls Guide Book
@ http://www.mattmaddaloni.com/