Viking Warrior - Lives again!
The roof crack called "Viking Warrior" was discovered in the late 80's by Gord Ross. Gord never got around to getting on the crack and told me about it one day in 2000. Later that year, myself, Gord and Patrick Delaney went to climb this roof crack. After a 15 min bush wack and a bit of scrambling we were at the base. I got the FA by a mix of aid and free, it was clean from the start. This line was beautiful i thought and was steep and very powerful climbing, right up my alley at the time. Both myself and pat worked it for a few days but never sent it. We both got to just below the lip but could not do the moves to top out. We figured it was in the 5.12+ range. After those few attempts we forgot about the Viking......
Seven years later it sees another go! I've been telling Mat about this for awhile now and tonight we went to check it out.
At first Mat was mocking me, saying it looks like crap rock but after he got on it he changed this mind quickly.
Mat climbed the route figuring out gear and the moves, then he pull the rope for a ground up attempt. Mat walked the first 3/4 of the route. I tried it again and got worked from the start - not near enough power right now :) I thought mat had it for sure but the crux is at the lip, he threw for the final hold but just missed it and peeled. After a brief rest he tried it again but could not put it together. It must of been because he put in a full day of rigging at zip trek (must be getting soft mat, it must be because your 30 in the fall!) We'll head back at the end of the week and I'm sure mat will walk the route. Till then.......
Then I'll disclose the location! He agrees its about 5.12+

1 comments:
Really nice shots. please visit rkmalpin.blogspot.com
Is about alpine style and fun in patagonia.
Chau Suerte.
Post a Comment