Monday, December 14, 2009

New Mixed Route, Squamish

New mixed route to the right of Zombie roof. I'm not sure how hard but probably harder than M7. The line pulls out two roofs with the first having no feet and a long reach, figure four needed! The second roof involves lay backing a thin crack with ice in it to reach a hanging short dagger. The above ice slab just takes 4" stubbies to the anchor just below the start of Jabberwocky. The upper ice section is almost a route in itself. We've top roped this route many times over the past couple of years and it always seems to form. What is cool about it is that there is no free route here in the summer because the route completely blanks out past the final roof and without the ice it would never go. First image by Scott Pick, the rest by Nick Sopczak.


I broke my ankle 5 months ago and this was my first real day out. Needless to say I'm super weak and didn't send, but feel free to giver her a go! Just let me know if you send it and what you think the grade is.

Route name:
FROZEN ZOMBIE

1.5 oz Roses Lime Juice
1.5 oz Orange Juice
1.0 oz Light Rum
1.0 oz Dark Rum
1.0 oz Triple Sec






45 comments:

russianfront said...

Hey Matt, that looks sweeet from higher up. Great climb! And tell Nick that those are sick pics!

Drew said...

Hey Matt, I know this is right of Through the Never but how does it relate to the 13a gear route in the same area that got climbed a few years ago?

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