Thursday, September 9, 2010

The Titan

My new project

The Titan 5.13c

The crag is called Echo Wall and it lies directly across the Squamish River as seen from the Railway Museum in Squamish. The route has 3 pitches. The first is a 5.12a finger crack to the top of a small tower block. From here begins the 60 foot horizontal roof that consists of various sizes of flakes, rated 5.13b. The last pitch is still undone and may be 5.12 up a double overhanging corner.

I have been working the roof as a single pitch from the ground to the chimney at the lip of the roof. This makes for a huge 40 meter pitch rated at 5.13c. The climbing requires skills in sport and trad with chimneys, offwidths, hand jamming, overhead heel hooking, knee bars, crimps, slopers, finger cracks, knee drops and bouldering power moves. The protection is a mix of cams and bolts.

Today I go back for another attempt after a month away. Can't wait to send and share more tales of this amazing line. It is the biggest free climbable roof in the Sea to Sky Area!I have fallen near the end from a gritty hand jam that popped. I wasn't pumped! and quickly got back on and finished making for a send with one fall. This is after about 15 different days on the route with a lot of energy going into aiding it, clearing away loose rock, bolting around scary features and scrubbing, plus working out the endless complexity of the moves while always on lead... can't climb it any other way as it's so steep.

1 comment: said...

Matt, this is awesome! Sick photos and an awesome climb. I want to see some film of you sending it!